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samedi, février 10, 2007

Vêtements intelligents

E-wear du défilé « Electroniquement »
d’Olivier Lapidus en 2000

Autrefois, les hommes se protégeaient avec des fourrures, des peaux.
Ils tissèrent ensuite des fibres naturelles : laine, soie, lin, coton …
Dès le XIXe siècle, ils créèrent les fibres artificielles par réaction chimique des produits naturels. Ils tissèrent la viscose, l’acétate, la rayonne, la fibranne.
Au XXe siècle, ils inventèrent des fibres synthétiques par réaction chimique : polyamide, acrylique, polyester, chlorofibre … Ces textiles solides, infroissables et d’entretien facile étaient issus du pétrole, du charbon ou du recyclage des plastiques.

Actuellement, les chercheurs étudient des « textiles intelligents » avec des matériaux intégrés qui donnent des propriétés spécifiques.

Des tissus émettent des produits.
Des micro-capsules libèrent par rupture ou à travers leur membrane une substance cosmétique ou bactéricide : un carré Hermès fut ainsi parfumé et des chaussettes chassèrent les mauvaises odeurs grâce à de microscopiques billes, bourrées d’antibactériens.

D’autres chercheurs veulent « accrocher des molécules antibactériennes directement sur un textile naturel comme le coton », explique Gilbert Boulon de l’ITECH, l’Institut textile et chimique de Lyon. Le bactéricide agit tant qu’il y a du tissu. Il avoue cependant que « le procédé n’est pas tout à fait au point ». Ce tissu intéresserait le secteur de la santé, notamment pour lutter contre les maladies nosocomiales.

Des vêtements captent des données.
Ces textiles répondent de façon intelligente et interagissent à des stimuli électriques. Ils réagissent par conduction, transmission, distribution de différentes propriétés dans ou vers l’extérieur du matériel sollicité.

Les vêtements communicants, grâce aux composants électroniques miniaturisés, intégrent la lumière, l’image et le son.
- En janvier 2000, lors de son défilé haute couture “Électroniquement ”, Olivier Lapidus a présenté des « e-tailleurs » téléphoniques, des robes sources d”images ou de son. Les composants électroniques étaient directement intégrés au tissage de la fibre.
- Le Media Laboratory du Massachusetts Institute of Technology, aux Etats-Unis, développe le concept des chaussures GPS, des lunettes web-cam ...
- Des textiles intègrent l’électronique pour la surveillance des personnes : température corporelle, respiration, fréquence cardiaque … Les paramètres recueillis par des capteurs sont enregistrés par un système électronique fixé à la ceinture puis traités par ordinateur.
Ainsi le Lifeshirt de Vivometrics, qui surveille en continu l’état d’une personne, intéresse même l’armée américaine.
Isabelle Chartier, physicienne au Commissariat à l’énergie atomique de Grenoble, travaille « sur l’intégration, dans des vêtements, de capteurs comme des accéléromètres et des magnétomètres. » Ces textiles activeraient un système d’alerte lors d’une situation anormale et permettraient le maintien à domicile des personnes faiblement dépendantes.

Le tissu deviendra vraiment intelligent quand la fibre elle-même sera capteur.
Didier Dieppois, ingénieur chez Payen, tente de mettre au point le Pagatronic pour détecter le moindre mouvement. Un fil capteur, tissé avec la fibre, conduit le courant grâce à sa composition métallique. Il crée un signal mesurable puisque, du fait de son élasticité, il se déforme et modifie la circulation de l’électricité. Ce textile permettrait de mesurer les variations du volume de la cage thoracique, notamment chez les personnes qui souffrent d’insuffisance respiratoire.
Le développement de l’électronique textile est étudié dans le monde entier. Bientôt on pourra réaliser des « circuits imprimés en tissu » avec des diodes et des transistors grâce à des fibres conductrices et semi-conductrices. Un laboratoire de Berkeley, en Californie, aurait déjà pu fabriquer un fil transistor.

Les fonctions des vêtements évoluent.
Les habits protègent, séduisent, marquent l’appartenance à un sexe, à un groupe ou à une profession. Mais « les vêtements de demain seront bactéricides, communicants et serviront d’assistants médicaux. »

L’homme gardera-t-il sa part de fantaisie ?
Sûrement. Rien ne l’empêchera de confectionner des vêtements avec des aliments, des tissus carnés, du papier toilette, des cannettes

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100 Comments:

Anonymous Christelle said...

Bonsoir IKdix; à rechercher sur le même thème (je n'ai pas le temps pour cause de soirée au RHPS (à rechercher aussi)) : l'exposition "Textiles Intelligents" qui s'est tenue à Troyes et à laquelle participaient des artistes de la "sphère étendue" de l'Apacc : Midori Sakuraï et Florence Bost.
La première utilise les tissus pour des mises en scène chorégraphiques et scénographiques ; La seconde utilise des tissus sensoriels "interactifs" pour créer des objets (art / décoration ). Je dois encore avoir le dossier de presse dans un coin...

février 10, 2007 8:25 PM  
Blogger IKdix said...

En effet l'exposition du musée
Saint-Loup évoque l'histoire du textile, les spécificités de la filière et son avenir.

Elle montre aussi comment les créateurs artistiques s’approprient les textiles intelligents.
Florence Bost crée « des textiles qui ont une certaine autonomie, qui vivent et qui changent à côté de nous. »
Midori Sakuraï se tourne vers la vidéo pour mettre en scène des oeuvres plastiques et lumineuses : " le plateau et la salle sont dans une obscurité totale. Je suis sur scène mais invisible, seules les sources lumineuses que je manipule sont visibles. Je peins la lumière, me joue des ombres ou des réfections, par le biais de divers matériaux transmetteurs de lumière".

février 11, 2007 2:30 PM  
Blogger Scheiro said...

Lors d’une ronde de nuit, un soir d’hiver 2338 à Amiantes, Martin le Lapidus partage son manteau avec un déshérité transi de faim car il n’a déjà plus de solde après l'avoir généreusement gaspillé en offrant aux petites soeurs des pauvres des carrés Herpès bourré de micro-capsules libérant par rupture ou à travers leur membrane une substance cosmétique au jus de chaussettes. Martin le Lapidus, toujours fringué à la dernière mode, tranche son manteau de chair pour albinos anorexique et la nuit suivante Sauciflard de Saint-Laurent lui apparaît en songe vêtu de ce même pan de manteau.

Vive le tissu sciences-fictionatoire !!!

février 11, 2007 6:37 PM  
Blogger IKdix said...

Comme je le dis dans mon post, Scheiro, l’homme garde sa part de fantaisie ! :-)

février 11, 2007 8:02 PM  
Blogger Evret said...

Tu es si mimi Scheiro :p

février 13, 2007 10:31 PM  
Blogger Scheiro said...

Pas autant que toi, Evret ;-)

février 14, 2007 5:54 PM  
Anonymous Olivier SC said...

Bien venue, IKdix, dans la "team" des beta-testeurs de l'AutoRoll de Criteo. Tu es déjà sur la mienne au Monde et je vois, chez toi, Legweak que tu connais par mes Revues. Ce rapprochement entre 2 artistes, "faisant" aussi du contenu, de la blogosphère me parait être un bon point pour cet outil !

février 19, 2007 3:44 PM  
Blogger Scheiro said...

Ha bon ? IK, toi aussi chez Mr. Panurge.
Je ne l'aurais jamais cru, si on m'avait dit ça de toi ;-)

février 19, 2007 8:15 PM  
Blogger IKdix said...

@ Olivier
Comme je l’ai écrit dans ton blog, j’ai voulu tester.
J’ai visité bien sûr le blog de Legweak.
Je clique sur la blogroll Criteo surtout pour découvrir de nouveaux blogs.

@ Scheiro
Et oui, Amiral, j’ai cédé à l’appel des sirènes !
M’envoyez-vous encore dans la cale ou à Amiantes en 2038? :-)
A bientôt

février 20, 2007 12:41 AM  
Blogger Scheiro said...

Hahaaha !!! L'esprit est fort, mais la sphère est faible ;-p

février 20, 2007 12:59 AM  
Blogger IKdix said...

@ Scheiro
Je veux tester, observer de l’intérieur.
Ne l’as-tu pas fait avec les statistiques ?
Ton choix définitif n’est-il pas venu ultérieurement ?
« L’essayer, ce n’est pas l’adopter ».

février 20, 2007 11:57 AM  
Blogger Scheiro said...

Il y a pourtant aucun rapport entre des stats à usage personnel, d'un côté, qui ne donnent que de pauvres indications pour un blogger non-orienté vers le commerce, le marketing - savoir si tes lecteurs ont majoritairement un écran 15 pouces ou 17 pouces, par exemple - et qui ne fournissent donc que des indications sur les posts les plus consultés [ce que le nombre de commentaires indique déjà], et, d'un autre côté, une machine comme cette agrégateur Criteo que tu ne contrôle pas mais qui te met automatiquement en relation avec des bloggers-consommateurs partageant les mêmes intérêts pour le (super)marché définis par des statisticiens très aguerris !
Je ne sais pas si tu as suivi mes commentaires sur le blog de Tizel, IK. Et je me demande si tu me suis bien dans mon discours. Parce qu'il me semble que, dans mes souvenirs, tu n'étais pas très enthousiaste pour le "flikage" (une de tes expressions ?) organisé par l'industrie.
Mais bon, rien ne t'empêche d'avoir changé d'avis depuis, ce n'est pas déshonorant ;-)

février 20, 2007 2:21 PM  
Anonymous adjaya said...

Moi, je vois bien les vêtements en tube, comme le dentifrice :)

février 20, 2007 6:56 PM  
Blogger Gilles Desforges said...

Adjaya a raison, revenons aux moutons (sujet) du billet ; mais comme Olivier le mentionnait dans une de ses Revues, je me permets de mettre mon grain de sel.

Je viens de supprimer SPAN chez moi avec l'avis d'Adjaya rejoignant celui de Christelle ; surtout car je ne parvenais pas à le régler comme je le voulais (Span ouvre des mini-fenêtres où tu prévois les blogs liés).

Je ne laisserais pas tomber AutoRoll de Criteo, n'en d'éplaise à Scheiro ;)

Bon, les fringues intelligentes savent-elles gratouiller là où ça nous démangerait ? :)

février 20, 2007 7:57 PM  
Blogger Scheiro said...

>Adjaya a raison, revenons aux moutons (sujet) du billet
C'est vrai que tout ce qui suit est en rapport avec le billet d'IK ;-))
Tu oublies de mentionner mon avis défavorable sur Snap rédigé sur ton blog mais tu te trompes en pensant que le fait que vous puissiez faire du buzz pour Criteo puisse me déplaire, parce que ça ne me pose aucun problème sauf que je remarque qu'il y a un incohérences entre vos discours - non à l'emprise des vilains capitalistes sur nos blogs - et vos actes. Une sorte d'oxymoron : la libre soumission ;-))

février 20, 2007 10:33 PM  
Blogger IKdix said...

@ Adjaya
J’ai adoré ton commentaire.
Précise ta pensée. Le vêtement aurait la forme et la texture du tube ou serait-il fabriqué avec une centaine de petits tubes ?

De toute façon, ta création ferait un tabac puisque, « dans les aéroports, la chasse au tube de dentifrice bat son plein. » :-)

février 21, 2007 4:44 PM  
Blogger IKdix said...

@ Gilles
Personnellement, je ne sais pas si je garderai AutoRoll. Je testerai pendant quelque temps et je déciderai.

PS - Les vêtements intelligents nous démangeraient-ils là où ça gratouille ?


@ Scheiro
Je refuse le "flikage" dans le domaine des idées politiques.

Comme tu le dis chez Tizel, les blogs donnent des tonnes d’informations.
L’agrégateur Criteo, qui groupe les blogueurs en panels homogènes, augmentera la visibilité des habitudes de consommation et donc à terme la rentabilité des entreprises.

La visibilité de nos habitudes commerciales existe déjà à plusieurs niveaux.
Le consommateur reste quand même maître de ses choix !

février 21, 2007 4:49 PM  
Blogger Scheiro said...

Le crois que nous sommes d'accord IK, et ces pour cette raison qu'il est inutile de donner volontairement encore plus de renseignements aux industriels qui nous mettent suffisament sous pressions à longueur d'années utilisant des méthodes de plus en plus sophistiquées contre lesquelles ils devient de plus en plus difficile de resiter. Même si je pense que les entreprises doivent prospérer si nous tenons à jouir de notre petit confort matériel.

février 21, 2007 8:59 PM  
Anonymous adjaya said...

[@ Adjaya
J’ai adoré ton commentaire.
Précise ta pensée. Le vêtement aurait la forme et la texture du tube ou serait-il fabriqué avec une centaine de petits tubes ?]

Je pensais à une sorte de crème à se passer sur le corps, qui par réaction avec l'air deviendrais une magnifique combinaison. évidement, micro poreuse pour laisser respirer la peau, plus quelques propriété à définir : Une pour l'été avec un matériau rafraichissant, et une autre pour l'hiver isothermique.

Et pourquoi pas de petits tubes de couleurs pour ajouter ici et là quelques fantaisies.

février 26, 2007 7:44 PM  
Blogger IKdix said...

@ Adjaya
Hé hé ... je suis preneuse !
Je t’en commande une pour cet été. :-)
Prévois de nombreux tubes car j’aime mettre des couleurs sur la vie.

février 26, 2007 11:37 PM  
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Dear R: She also signed her letter "Rejected Mom," which told me that this was really more about her than her children.


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